GE heat pump water heater
GE GeoSpring GEH50DEED (2012–2014) error codes
Covers: GeoSpring Hybrid Electric (model GEH50DEED, e.g. GEH50DEEDSR)
Every code listed in GE's own manual for this series, with what it means and what GE says to do. Last checked 2026-10-03.
Is this your model? Model number GEH50DEED... (rating label on the front side of the water heater). GE's support page for GEH50DEEDSR states 'Manufactured March, 2012 - November, 2014'. Control has mode LEDs (Heat Pump (only), Hybrid, High Demand/Boost, Electric/Standard (Fan off), Vacation) and a numeric display; the manual states there is no power button.
| Code | Label | What the manual says it means |
|---|---|---|
| F-A | T4 Not Rising | |
| F-B | Discharge Temp Not Stable | |
| F-C | Evaporator Not Frost Free | |
| F-D | Superheat Too Low | |
| F-E | Discharge Temperature Above Limit | |
| F-F | Electronic Expansion Valve Out of Range | |
| FG | T5 Ambient Temperature Check (some models) | |
| FH | Compresor Load Test [sic] (some models) | |
| FI | Refrigerant Leak Test (some models) | |
| F2 | T2 Tank Temperature Sensor Failure | |
| F3 | Compressor Failure | |
| F4 | Fan Failure | |
| F5 | T3a Sensor (Evap inlet temperature) Failure | |
| F6 | T3b Sensor (Evap outlet temperature) Failure | |
| F7 | T4 Sensor (Compressor outlet) Failure | |
| F8 | T5 Sensor (ambient temperature) Failure | |
| F9 | Lower Heating Element Failure | |
| F10 | Upper Heating Element Failure | |
| F11 | Dry Tank Fault | Dry Tank Fault. The water heater has not been filled with water before powering up; powering up without water will damage the electric heaters (warranty does not cover operation with an empty or partially empty tank). During installation: if the unit is powered on without a full tank, F11 will show in the display. |
| bAd linE (F12) | The voltage is too low at power-up. Unit is not receiving 240VAC as intended / not receiving the correct voltage as a result of incorrect wiring. | |
| F13 | Stuck Key Fault | |
| Dirty Filter (F14) | Filter is dirty | |
| F15 | DataFlash Fault |
GE's manual for this series does not list error codes; see the troubleshooting section below.
Safety first
- CAUTION: For your safety, DO NOT attempt repair of electrical wiring, controls, heating elements or other safety devices. Refer repairs to qualified service personnel. (p.21)
- CAUTION: Risk of Shock - Shut off power to the water heater before draining water. (p.11)
- DANGER: Risk of Scald - Before manually operating the relief valve, make certain no one will be exposed to the hot water released by the valve. (p.11)
- If the water heater has been subjected to flood, fire, or physical damage, turn off power and water; do not operate again until thoroughly checked by qualified service personnel. (p.4)
- Temperature-limiting control (TCO) reset should be done by a qualified service technician, and the cause of the high temperature condition must be investigated before placing the heater back in service. (p.4)
- This unit has no power button; power can only be shut off at the circuit breaker or disconnect switch. (p.11)
From the manufacturer's manual for this series.
Troubleshooting without a code
Heater is beeping and the screen says "FA-F8"
Likely cause: There is an issue with the heat pump system.
What to do: The unit will automatically switch to another available mode to ensure you continue to have hot water. Contact service immediately and give them the codes listed on the display screen.
Heater is beeping and the screen flashes an error code
Likely cause: There is an issue with the water heater that requires immediate attention.
What to do: The heater may switch to another available heating mode. Contact service immediately. To stop the beeping noise (unless error code F2, F11 or bAd linE) press either the UP or down arrow button and the alarm will stop and the display will go back to normal (set temperature).
The filter light is on
Likely cause: The filter requires cleaning. A clean filter is necessary for effective operation.
What to do: Follow the instructions on how to remove and clean the filter on page 12.
Water heater makes sounds
Likely cause: A fan is used to move air through the system.
What to do: Some amount of fan sound is normal. If you hear an abnormal sound or the sound level seems unusually loud, then contact service.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Room is not vented properly or is too small.
What to do: If the room is smaller than 10' x 10' x 7' (3m x 3m x 2.1m), then it must have a louvered door or other means to allow air exchange with surrounding rooms.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Heat is removed from the air to heat the water.
What to do: This is normal.
Water dripping down the outside of the heater
Likely cause: Condensate drain is clogged.
What to do: Clear out any debris in the drain port on the unit.
Water dripping down the outside of the heater
Likely cause: Hot/Cold water connections are not tightened.
What to do: Tighten the inlet and outlet pipe connections.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water temperature may be set too low.
What to do: See About the Water Temperature Setting section.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode.
What to do: Change to different mode.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water usage may have exceeded the capacity of the water heater.
What to do: Wait for the water heater to recover after an abnormal demand.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Ambient temperature is too low.
What to do: For the water heater to work properly, its location needs to have a temperature of 32 to 150F for Standard Electric mode and 45 to 120F for all other modes.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Cold water inlet temperature may be colder during the winter months.
What to do: This is normal. The colder inlet water takes longer to heat.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Leaking or open hot water faucets.
What to do: Make sure all faucets are closed.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Long runs of exposed pipe, or hot water piping on outside wall.
What to do: Insulate piping.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Not enough clearance to allow air to circulate for the heat pump.
What to do: Make sure unit is 7" away from the wall.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Room size is not appropriate for water heater.
What to do: If room size is less than 10' x 10' x 7' (700 cu. ft.), install louvered door or similar ventilation.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: A fuse is blown or a circuit breaker tripped.
What to do: Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Electric service to your home may be interrupted.
What to do: Contact the local electric utility.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Improper wiring.
What to do: See the Installation Instructions section.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Manual reset limit (TCO).
What to do: See the Safety Control section, see page 4.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water connections to unit reversed.
What to do: Correct piping connections.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Electric supply may be off.
What to do: Make sure electric supply to water heater is correct; disconnect switch, if used, is in the ON position.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Water temperature is set too high.
What to do: See About the Water Temperature Setting section.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Electronic control has failed.
What to do: Call for service.
Rumbling noise
Likely cause: Water conditions in your home caused a buildup of scale or mineral deposits on the heating elements.
What to do: Remove and clean the heating elements. This should only be done by a qualified service personnel.
Relief valve producing popping sound or draining
Likely cause: Pressure buildup caused by thermal expansion to a closed system.
What to do: This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected. See Thermal Expansion information on page 15. Do not plug the relief valve outlet. Contact a plumbing contractor to correct this.
Hot water has a rotten egg or sulfur smell
Likely cause: Certain water supplies with high sulfate content will react with the anode rod that is present in all water heaters for corrosion protection of the tank.
What to do: The odor can be reduced or eliminated in most water heaters by replacing the anode rod with less-active material rod. In some cases, chlorinating the water heater and all hot water lines may be necessary; contact your local water professional or plumber. Call GE at 1.888.4GE.HEWH (1.888.443.4394) to learn how to purchase this replacement anode rod. A qualified servicer or plumber should do this replacement. Use of a non-GE approved anode rod, or operating without a GE approved anode rod will VOID the warranty.
Unit is not making normal sounds
Likely cause: If unit is using electric resistance elements, it will not make fan or compressor sounds.
What to do: Check mode of unit.
Owner maintenance
Test temperature and pressure-relief valve
How often: At least once a year
Lift and release the lever handle on the temperature and pressure-relief valve, located on the front-right side of the water heater, to make certain the valve operates freely. Allow several gallons to flush through the discharge line to an open drain.
Periodic inspection of operating controls, heating elements and wiring
How often: Once a year
Should be made by service personnel qualified in electric appliance repair.
Flush tank (sediment)
How often: No interval stated
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the unit and direct it to a drain. Open the drain valve with a flat screwdriver. Once a few quarts of water have been drained, close the drain valve. This should be done with the cold water supply open so water removed is replaced and supply flow helps remove sediment.
Clean air filter
How often: When the red Filter light is on (minimum once per year)
Leave the power on. Squeeze two tabs and lift to remove the filter from the top of the unit. Vacuum, wipe with a damp cloth or rinse with warm water. Once cleaned and dried, align it into the slots and push down into place. Press and hold the FILTER button (hold 5 seconds per the control description on p.5) to reset.
Clear condensate drain
How often: Periodically inspect
If the main drain is clogged, condensate will exit the overflow drain tube onto the floor as a notification. Remove the barbed tee and drain tube, clear any debris and reattach.
Inspect anode rod
How often: After a maximum of 3 years service, then annually (annually with artificially softened water)
Remove and inspect; replace when more than 6" (15.2 cm) of core wire is exposed at either end. Should be done by a qualified servicer or plumber, with electric power and cold water supply turned off.