Whirlpool heat pump water heater
Whirlpool Hybrid HPSE2K50/66/80 error codes
Covers: Whirlpool Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater HPSE2K50HD045V / HPSE2K66HD045V / HPSE2K80HD045V (Use & Care Guide 326883-002)
Every code listed in Whirlpool's own manual for this series, with what it means and what Whirlpool says to do. Last checked 2026-10-03.
Is this your model? Whirlpool's literature finder links this guide (326883-002) for HPSE2K50HD045V, HPSE2K66HD045V and HPSE2K80HD045V. The guide says these are made under license by A.O. Smith. The display shows three-character codes such as EUC or SF.
| Code | Label | What the manual says it means |
|---|---|---|
| EUC | Upper element is not functioning | |
| ELC | Lower element is not functioning | |
| SF | The air filter is dirty. | |
| ECF | The heat pump compressor is starting/stopping frequently. | |
| E20 or E21 | Upper Temperature Sensor is not functioning. | |
| E30 or E31 | Lower Temperature Sensor is not functioning. | |
| E50 or E51 | Heat Pump Suction Temperature Sensor is not functioning. | |
| E10 or E11 | Heat Pump Coil Temperature Sensor is not functioning. | |
| E40 or E41 | Heat Pump Discharge Temperature Sensor is not functioning. | |
| Edr | Not enough water in the tank (tank not full). | |
| EPL | Power supply voltage is too low. | |
| EDH | Heat Pump Discharge Temperature is too high. | |
| EoF | Condensate pump failure. (If Accessory Condensate Pump is installed) | |
| ECL | Heat pump suction pressure is too low. | |
| EEE | EEPROM failure | |
| ECC | Heat pump compressor is not functioning. | |
| - / -- / --- | Unit is doing a system diagnostic. | |
| ICE | Heat pump is in defrosting cycle. | |
| HPO | Heat pump is out of operation envelope. | |
| P.S. | Power saver | Power saver feature is activated (display alternates "P.S." and the setting temperature). This feature allows the unit to be managed by grid or other utility based load management programs. |
Whirlpool's manual for this series does not list error codes; see the troubleshooting section below.
Safety first
- Before attempting to clean or replace the air filter or condensate drain pan/lines, turn off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker/fuse box. (pg. 15)
- WARNING Electric Shock Hazard: Disconnect power before servicing. Replace all parts and panels before operating. Failure to do so can result in death or electrical shock. (pg. 16)
- WARNING Explosion Hazard: If the temperature and pressure relief valve is dripping or leaking, have a qualified person replace it. Do not plug valve. Do not remove valve. (pg. 15)
- ECO / high limit: To reset the ECO disconnect power at the circuit breaker/fuse box, remove the upper access panel and firmly push the red reset button. If the ECO continues to shut off the water heater, contact a qualified person for service. (pg. 11) Because the high limit operates only when abnormally high water temperatures are present, it is important that a qualified service agent be contacted to determine the reason for operation before resetting; do not attempt to reset thermostat with power on. (pg. 14)
- CAUTION: Hydrogen gas is produced in a hot water system that has not been used for a long period of time (2 weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable. Open the hot water faucet for several minutes before using any electrical appliance connected to the hot water system; no smoking or open flame near the faucet. (pg. 2, 12, 14)
- Do not attempt to operate or repair the water heater if it has been submerged or subjected to flooding; such units require replacement. (pg. 11)
- WARNING: Water temperature over 125°F can cause severe burns instantly or death from scalds. (pg. 11)
From the manufacturer's manual for this series.
Troubleshooting without a code
NO HOT WATER
Likely cause: No power to the water heater (No lights on the unit are on).
What to do: Check for blown fuse or tripped breaker. Restore power to unit.
NO HOT WATER
Likely cause: Unit in Vacation mode
What to do: Press Mode/Enter button and return to desired operating mode.
NO HOT WATER
Likely cause: High temperature limit switch open
What to do: Reset the high temperature limit switch; see "Safety shut-off" section for more information.
NO HOT WATER
Likely cause: Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode
What to do: Change to different mode or modify usage patterns.
NO HOT WATER
Likely cause: Non-functioning upper temperature sensor
What to do: Contact a qualified person for service.
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Temperature set-point too low
What to do: Increase set point temperature; see "Adjusting the User Interface Module" section
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Air filter dirty
What to do: Clean air filter
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode
What to do: Change to different mode or modify usage patterns (For example if in Efficiency Mode switch to Hybrid Mode)
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Water connections to unit reversed
What to do: Ensure the cold connection is at the bottom and that the hot connection is at the top
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Heat lost through long run of exposed pipe
What to do: Insulate exposed piping
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Hot water leak at faucet or piping
What to do: Repair hot water leaks
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Non-functioning heating element
What to do: Call qualified person for service
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER / SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY
Likely cause: Sediment or scale build up in tank
What to do: Drain and flush tank. Water conditioning may be necessary to minimize build up
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Temperature set-point too high
What to do: Decrease set point temperature; see "Adjusting the User Interface Module"
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Air filter dirty
What to do: Clean air filter
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Electric mode selected
What to do: Change to Efficiency or Hybrid mode for reduced energy costs
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Water connections to unit reversed
What to do: Ensure the cold connection is at the bottom and that the hot connection is at the top
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Heat lost thru long run of exposed pipe
What to do: Insulate exposed piping
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Hot water leak at faucet or piping
What to do: Repair hot water leaks
HIGH OPERATION COSTS
Likely cause: Sediment or scale build up in tank
What to do: Drain and flush tank. Water conditioning may be required to minimize build up
DRIP FROM TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (Warning: Do not plug or cap T&P discharge pipe.)
Likely cause: Excessive water pressure
What to do: Check water supply inlet pressure. If higher than 80 PSIG, install a pressure reducing valve (50-60 PSIG is the recommended pressure.)
DRIP FROM TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (Warning: Do not plug or cap T&P discharge pipe.)
Likely cause: Add or service a thermal expansion tank.
What to do: See "Closed System/Thermal Expansion" section
DRIP FROM TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (Warning: Do not plug or cap T&P discharge pipe.)
Likely cause: Non-functioning Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve
What to do: Replace the Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve
OTHER
Likely cause: The water heater does not immediately start
What to do: When first started the water heater takes about 8 minutes to complete a diagnostic routine
OTHER
Likely cause: The heat pump does not run in Efficiency mode.
What to do: Contact a qualified person for service
Owner maintenance
clean air filter
How often: remove and inspect, clean if needed - quarterly; also when display shows "SF"
Before attempting to clean or replace the air filter, turn off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker/fuse box. Take the two tabs on the air filter and remove (slide) it from the top cover of the unit. To clean the filter use a vacuum with a hose attachment to remove any dust or debris. Place the new or cleaned filter into the water heater. Restore power to the water heater and turn the water heater on (the water heater will conduct a system diagnostic prior to operation).
condensate drain pan and lines
How often: annually
Shut off power at the circuit breaker/fuse box. Remove the top jacket by loosening the screws securing it to the unit. Check the condensate drain pan and drain lines for any dirt or debris that might interfere with proper drainage; wipe out any dirt or debris with a damp cloth. Secure the top jacket. Restore power and turn the water heater on.
routine visual inspection
How often: annually (air filter quarterly)
Inspect the lower metal drain pan for standing water (may indicate a clogged condensate drain pan, condensate lines, or plumbing leak); leaking or damaged water piping; presence of corrosive materials in the installation area; presence of combustible materials near the water heater. If you lack the necessary skills, get help from a qualified person.
T&P relief valve
How often: once a year
Standing clear of the outlet (discharged water may be hot), slowly lift and release the lever handle to allow the valve to operate freely and return to its closed position. If the valve fails to completely reset and continues to release water, immediately disconnect the electrical power, close the cold water inlet valve and call a qualified person.
drain and flush tank
How often: every 6 months
Turn off the power at the circuit breaker/fuse box. Open a nearby hot water faucet until the water is no longer hot. Close the cold water inlet valve. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to an adequate drain or external to the building. Open the drain valve and allow all of the water to drain; flush with water as needed to remove sediment. Close the drain valve, refill the tank and restart. Do not turn on power unless the tank is completely filled with water.
anode rod inspection
How often: after a maximum of three years and annually thereafter; annually with artificially softened water
Signs of a depleted anode rod: the majority of the diameter is less than 3/8"; significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of the rod's length) are visible. To replace: turn off power; shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize; drain approximately 5 gallons; remove old anode rod; use Teflon tape or approved pipe sealant and install new rod; turn on water, purge air, check for leaks; restart. Do not remove the anode rod permanently (voids warranty).