GE heat pump water heater
GE Profile GEOSPRING Smart (PF / PH, 2025 on) error codes
Covers: GE Appliances GeoSpring Hybrid Heat Pump Residential, current (marketed as GE Profile GEOSPRING Smart; models PF40S10FP*, PH40S10BP*, PF50S10FP*, PH50S10BN*, PH50S10BP*, PH65S10BN*, PF65S10FP*, PH65S10BP*, PH80S10BN*, PF80S10FP*, PH80S10BP*; Canada PJ..S10*P* in service guide)
Every code listed in GE's own manual for this series, with what it means and what GE says to do. Last checked 2026-10-03.
Is this your model? Model number on the rating plate (front side). Per GE's technician quick reference: PF...S10*P* = 120 V models; PH...S10*P* and PH...S10*N* = 240 V; *P* models have the integrated electronic mixing valve (EMV), *N* models do not; PJ...S10*P* = Canada 120 V. GE support pages for PH50S10BPY/PF50S10FPY state 'Manufactured May, 2025 - Present' and PH80S10BNY 'November, 2025 - Present'. Codes in this series are two-digit F10-F96, unlike the older GeoSpring F2-F23/F-letter codes.
| Code | Label | What the manual says it means |
|---|---|---|
| F10, F20 | Lower Heating Element Failure | |
| F11, F21 | Upper Heating Element Failure | |
| F14 | Compressor Failure or Discharge temp. too high | |
| F15 | Fan Failure | |
| F16, F17 | No Hot Water - Mixing Valve Outlet DC TCO Tripped on EMV models or missing jumper wire on non-EMV models (F16 applies to models with integrated mixing valve) | |
| F18, F63 | Mixing Valve Failure (applies to models with integrated mixing valve) | |
| F19 | Runaway Heat Source | |
| F30 | Tank Temperature (T1) Failure open/short | |
| F31 | Tank Temperature (T2) Failure open/short | |
| F32 | Tank Temperature, (T1 or T2) Failure | |
| F34 | T3a Sensor (Evap inlet temperature) Failure | |
| F35 | T3b Sensor (Evap outlet temperature) Failure | |
| F36 | T4 Sensor (Compressor outlet) Failure | |
| F37 | T5 Sensor (ambient temperature) Failure | |
| F38 | Mixing Valve Outlet Temperature (T6) Failure (models with integrated mixing valve) | |
| F39 | Mixing Valve Cold Inlet Temperature (T7) Failure (models with integrated mixing valve) | |
| F41 | Sensing Anode miswired or Empty Tank or Anode Rod Wired Incorrectly (models with sensing anode). Also displayed on power-up after a special alloy anode rod is installed, until the sensing feature is disabled. | |
| F42 | Condensate Sensor Failure | |
| F43 | Water leak detected (from Leak Detect Module) | |
| F46, F53 | Evaporator Not Frost Free. Probable refrigerant leak or Evaporator Not Defrosting | |
| F47 | Seal System Vapor Lock Fault | |
| F48 | T5 Ambient Temperature Check | |
| F49 | Control Board - high temperature fault | |
| F50 | Inverter Fault | |
| F51 | Inverter Software Fault | |
| F52 | Compressor Discharge Temperature Low | |
| F54 | Superheat too low. Possible refrigerant leak. | |
| F55 | Electronic Expansion Valve Out of Range. Probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F56 | Electronic Expansion Valve Out of Range. Probable refrigerant leak; or Refrigerant Leak Test. Probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F57 | Concurrent Load High Current | |
| F60 | AC detection Failure | |
| F61 | Tank water temperature is too hot | |
| F62 | Incoming water too hot | |
| F70 | Anode Depleted | Anode Depleted (models with sensing anode). The ANODE text illuminates and the control beeps; the anode rod is approaching end of life. |
| F73 | Condensate Drain Pan Port Clogged. The heat pump stops and an alarm sounds; the unit keeps producing hot water with the backup resistance elements until the drain is cleared. | |
| F74 | Filter is dirty. If fault repeats after clearing, probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F75 | Dry Tank Fault | Dry Tank Fault. The water heater has not been filled with water before powering up; powering up without water will damage the electric heaters (not covered by warranty). |
| F76 | Voltage too low at power up. Unit is not receiving the correct rating plate voltage. | |
| F77 | Stuck Key Failure | |
| F78 | Leak Sensor detected water | |
| F81 | Leak Sensor Battery is low | |
| F90 | E2 module unplugged or damaged | |
| F91 or F92 | DataFlash Fault | |
| F93 | No Personality detected in control board | |
| F94 | WiFi Board Failure (WiFi icon dark) | |
| F95 | CTA Communication module software fault | |
| F96 | CTA module disconnected or low battery | |
| H20 | Water leak notification: the leak sensor detects a water leak; an audible alert sounds and a notification is sent via SmartHQ (if connected). If a smart water shut-off valve is installed, display toggles between "Off" and "H20" and new water supply is stopped. | |
| F12 | Lower Element Failure (Over Current Condition) | Control energizes Lower Element, but the Sensor detects high current flow. |
| F13 | Upper Element Failure (Over Current Condition) | Control energizes Upper Element, but the Sensor detects high current flow. |
| F33 | T2/T1 Failure (Drift) | T2/T1 sensor discrepancy (drift). |
| F71 | Current Sensor Failure | Current Sensor Failure. |
| F72 | Low Voltage while Operating | Low Voltage while Operating. |
| F79 | Sabbath Water Overtemperature | Informational fault. Water at bottom of Tank is >113 F. Too hot for Sabbath Mode. |
GE's manual for this series does not list error codes; see the troubleshooting section below.
Safety first
- CAUTION: For your safety, DO NOT attempt repair of electrical wiring, controls, heating elements or other safety devices. Refer repairs to qualified service personnel. (p.30)
- CAUTION: Risk of Shock - Shut off power to the water heater before draining water. (p.12)
- DANGER: Risk of Scald - Before manually operating the relief valve, make certain no one will be exposed to the hot water released by the valve. (p.12)
- CAUTION: Ensure power is completely removed from appliance before servicing, as utility switching devices may falsely indicate that power has been removed. (p.5)
- High limit ECO reset should be done by a qualified service technician; the cause of the high temperature condition must be investigated before placing the water heater in service again. (p.5)
- Anode inspection should be done by a qualified servicer or plumber due to shock hazard, with electric power and cold water supply turned off. (p.14)
- Unit uses A2L flammable refrigerant (R1234YF per the service guide); handling, servicing and disposal of refrigerant must comply with local regulation and be performed only as recommended by the manufacturer. (p.17)
- Technician quick reference: 'DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE SERVICING. IMPORTANT - RECONNECT ALL GROUNDING DEVICES.' (service guide p.1)
From the manufacturer's manual for this series.
Troubleshooting without a code
Heater is beeping and the screen displays an error code
Likely cause: Heat pump system or control issues.
What to do: The water heater may automatically switch to another available heating mode to ensure continued availability of hot water. Contact service immediately and give them the codes listed on the display screen. To quiet the beeping, press either the + or - button.
The filter light or F74 is on
Likely cause: The filter requires cleaning. A clean filter is necessary for effective operation.
What to do: Follow the instructions on how to remove and clean the filter on page 13. Repeated dirty filter alarms that do not resolve by cleaning the filter may be an indication of a sealed system failure. Contact service.
The mode indicator light is flashing
Likely cause: Normal operation.
What to do: In Heat Pump (Turtle), Hybrid or High Demand (Rabbit) Mode, the corresponding LED light will flash whenever the Electric Resistive Elements are active. These conditions are normal and do not indicate an operating issue.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water temperature may be set too low.
What to do: See the Water Temperature Adjustment section (page 4). If the product has an integrated mixing valve, turn capacity setting up to "High" or "X-High" to increase available hot water capacity.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode.
What to do: Change to different mode. Wait for the water heater to recover after an abnormal demand.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Cold water inlet temperature may be colder during the winter months.
What to do: This is normal. The colder inlet water takes longer to heat. Consider increasing the set temperature or increase capacity setting on models equipped with an electronic mixing valve.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Leaking or open hot water faucets.
What to do: Make sure all faucets are closed.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Long runs of exposed pipe, or hot water piping on outside wall.
What to do: Insulate piping.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Not enough clearance to allow air to circulate for the heat pump.
What to do: Make sure unit is 7" away from the wall and has 8" clearance above the air filter.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Room is too small or too cool, slowing heating performance.
What to do: If the room is smaller than 700 cu.ft. (10'x10'x7'), install louvred doors or similar ventilation. Cooler room temperatures can slow recovery; consider increasing the set temperature.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: A fuse is blown, circuit breaker tripped, or electric service to your home may be interrupted.
What to do: Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. Contact the local electric utility.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Inadequate wiring.
What to do: See the Installation Instructions.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Manual reset high limit (ECO).
What to do: See the Safety Controls section, see page 5.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water connections to unit reversed.
What to do: Correct piping connections.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Dip tube damaged.
What to do: Contact your local installer, plumbing contractor, or previously agreed upon service agency.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Recirculating system interference (if installed).
What to do: Hot water recirculation systems should not be installed on mixing valve models.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Water temperature is set too high.
What to do: See the Water Temperature Adjustment section.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Electronic Control has failed.
What to do: Call for service.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Room is not vented properly or is too small.
What to do: If the room is smaller than 700 cu.ft. (10'x10'x7') then it must have a louvred door or other means to allow air exchange with surrounding rooms.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Heat is removed from the air to heat the water.
What to do: This is normal.
Water heater makes sounds
Likely cause: A fan is used to move air through the system.
What to do: Some amount of fan sound is normal. If you hear an abnormal sound or the sound level seems unusually loud (ex, louder than a window A/C), then contact service.
Water heater makes sounds
Likely cause: The EEV valve makes clicking noises upon power up.
What to do: This is normal.
Unit is not making normal sounds
Likely cause: If unit is using electric resistance elements, it will not make fan or compressor sounds.
What to do: Check mode of unit.
Rumbling noise
Likely cause: Water conditions in your home caused a buildup of scale or mineral deposits on the heating elements.
What to do: Remove and clean the heating elements. This should only be done by a qualified service person or plumbing contractor.
Squealing/chirping sound when drawing hot water
Likely cause: In certain usage conditions, noise may transmit through plumbing from the integrated mixing valve.
What to do: Increasing user set point or lowering capacity setting may address this condition on integrated mixing valve models. Consult a plumbing professional to install a pressure limiting device, if due to high water pressure.
Intermittent EMV motor noise on integrated mixing valve models
Likely cause: A soft motor noise may be heard during normal operation due to movement of control valve.
What to do: This noise is normal and does not indicate any issue with product.
Water dripping down the outside of the heater
Likely cause: Hot/Cold water connections or other parts have loosened.
What to do: Tighten the loose connections. This should only be done by a qualified service person or plumbing contractor.
Relief valve producing popping sound or draining
Likely cause: Pressure buildup caused by thermal expansion to a closed system.
What to do: This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected. See Thermal Expansion section on page 23. Do not plug the relief valve outlet. Contact a plumbing contractor to correct this.
Hot water has a rotten egg or sulfur smell
Likely cause: Certain water supplies with high sulfate content will react with the anode rod that is present in all water heaters for corrosion protection of the tank.
What to do: The odor can be reduced or eliminated in most water heaters by replacing the anode rod with less-active material rod; in some cases chlorinating the water heater and all hot water lines may be necessary (contact your local water professional or plumber). Go to GEAppliances.com/waterheater for information on purchasing the replacement anode rod. A qualified servicer or plumber should do this replacement. Non-GE Appliances approved anode rods, or operating without one, will VOID the warranty. In certain cases, increasing the tank temperature to 140F (60C) can reduce this odor issue (see scald warnings).
Owner maintenance
Annual preventive maintenance program
How often: Annual
Inspect T&P relief valve; inspect heating elements, ECO and wiring; drain and flush the tank; remove and inspect the anode rod.
Test temperature and pressure-relief valve
How often: Once a year
Lift and release the lever handle on the T&P relief valve (front-right side) to make certain the valve operates freely. Allow several gallons to flush through the discharge line to an open drain.
Inspect heating elements, ECO and wiring
How often: Once a year
Inspection should be completed by service personnel qualified in electrical appliance repair.
Drain and flush tank
How often: Once a year
Turn off power. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and direct it to a drain. Turn off the cold water supply. Admit air by opening a hot water faucet or lifting the relief valve handle. Open the drain valve (flat blade screwdriver on the stem). Once empty, with the drain open, turn on the cold water supply and let several gallons flush; turn off supply and drain; repeat until water runs clear. Close the drain valve and fill the tank before returning power.
Clean air filters (3: one top, two sides)
How often: When the Filter LED illuminates and the alarm sounds
Leave the power on. Remove the top filter and the two side filters. Vacuum, wipe with a damp cloth or rinse with warm water. Once dry, snap back in place by pushing at the embossed locations. Press and hold the Reset button below the Filter LED until the Filter LED turns off. If the dirty filter alarm returns within a few days after cleaning and resetting, it may indicate a refrigerant leak; diagnosis by a service technician is necessary.
Clear condensate drain
How often: Periodically inspect drain lines
If the main drain clogs, the heat pump stops, F73 shows and an alarm sounds. Press any button to silence, remove drain lines and connections, clear debris, reattach, and allow the heater to run.
Inspect anode rod
How often: Annually
Remove and inspect; replace when more than 6" (15.2 cm) of core wire is exposed at either end. Artificially softened water consumes the rod faster. Should be done by a qualified servicer or plumber with electric power and cold water supply turned off. If a device periodically cuts power to the heater, inspect the anode every 2-3 years (sensing-anode models). Special alloy rods (for odor) require disabling the sensing feature and annual inspection.
Sources
- GeoSpring Hybrid Heat Pump Residential Owner's Manual & Installation Instructions (49-6000330 Rev 1)
- GE Appliances GeoSpring Hybrid Heat Pump Residential technician quick reference ("FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN USE ONLY"; listed as 'Service Manual' on the GE product page)
- GE Appliances product page PH50S10BPY (lists the documents above)